The Pope’s Socks And The Cassock War
The Pope’s socks
This morning, preparing breakfast at the Chaplin B&B, one of my guests told me that she had found the perfect souvenir to take home from Rome. Walking through the center, in the Pantheon area, they had stumbled upon the store that supplies the Pope’s robes and they had bought a pair of socks there, as a gift for their friends.
They remembered the name of the shop, Annibale Gammarelli, but couldn’t tell me the address, so I googled it. Most of the articles that came up were in German and one of them was intriguingly titled the “Soutane-Krieg”.
Gammarelli, Euroclero and the Cassock War
Gammarelli has been supplying Popes with their wardrobes since 1793, but when Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger became Pope Benedict he apparently changed tailors, preferring to stick with Euroclero (Piazza Sant’Uffizio, 4), the shop where he used to have his Cardinal’s wardrobe made.
As usual Annibale Gammarelli had been ordered to make the first set of garments for the new Pope, in three different sizes (small, medium and large), since nobody knew yet what size was going to fit the still to be elected Pontiff. None of them fit perfectly, though. Benedict had chosen the smallest size, but this turned out to be too short for his height, so the new Pope returned to his trusted Euroclero.
Though the Pope has decided to stick with Euroclero, Gammarelli will continue to be known as the pontifical tailoring firm. They firmly denied that the Pope had changed tailors, claiming that the clothes made by Euroclero should be seen as an “occasional gift to a friend”.
Central locations of and directions to Gammarelli and Euroclero
The address of Gammarelli is Via di Santa Chiara, 34 and the phone number (+39)0668801314.
From the Bed and Breakfast Chaplin and the Rome Hostel Little Italy you take bus 40E and get off at Largo di Torre Argentina. Turn right into either the Via di Torre Argentina or the Via dei Cestari and the second street you cross is the Via di Santa Chiara.
To get from the B&B’s to the Piazza Sant’Uffizio you take the 40E all the way to the end of the line, just outside St. Peter’s Square, and then walk around the Vatican.